In June 2020, we launched our #BoutecoWorldStories series on Instagram to share stories from hoteliers and travel changemakers from every country of the world, one at a time.
What inspired this? Canvass friends and family, and you’ll probably find many of our co-workers and cohorts just aren’t aware of what’s happening beyond our borders. How can this be in an era when we’re more globally connected than ever? During the first couple of months of the pandemic, many folks were understandably turning off media alerts as they’re bored of being bombarded with bad news. Others were unsure what news outlets and media sources to trust. Well, we thought we’d help and give a window into perspectives for all 195 countries in the world during the pandemic in a quick, easy postcard from some of our extensive network of friends, everywhere. We have been sharing wise words from every single country, and open eyes and ears to how Covid-19’s effect on the travel industry has been affecting lives from Cambodia to Colombia…
#1 POSTCARD FROM SPAIN from Philip James Baber @sticknobillsposters
“Right now Mallorca is a good barometer for the near future of travel. The skies and the seas around us have never been so crystal clear. Only the super-rich are coming in by yacht or private jet. The island's residents have mixed feelings about lower-end hedonistic travel having disappeared. It's left the giant 3- and 4-star hotels empty while boutique hotels, high-end retail and concierges tick over (some exclusive services even reporting an uptick).
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Palma Old Town has an air of wealth about its foot traffic — and a charm as though we’ve been transported back to the 1950s: less people spending more, looking great in their Ralph Lauren Polo shirts and Wayfarers. The beaches empty of mass tourism. Surfers are rediscovering the sensation of having a wave of their own. Sounds great, huh? Yet anyone involved in business related to Mallorcan tourism is hurting. It is all about your monthly 'burn rate': how long can sole traders and businesses continue when overheads outstrip income? I'm seeing once highly-successful entrepreneurs falling over cliffs financially because they've hit that threshold. But what is coming through is the immense camaraderie among the surviving traders and talented creatives and the fact we all have access to an excellent health service."
#2 POSTCARD FROM CAMBODIA from Bill Bensley @Shintamani_wild
”Despite neighbouring countries such as China banning the consumption of illegal wildlife, the reality in Cambodia is that poaching and illegal deforestation has actually increased since the start of the pandemic. And so we hold fast and are fighting even harder, for it is now that the forest and its inhabitants stand to lose the most, when the world is staying home and isn't watching what goes on out here. I made a lifelong pledge to fund Wildlife Alliance's combat and sustained that through the hotel – now that it has been closed for six months, it is a pledge I continue to uphold, even if it has to come from my own pocket. We truly need all the support we can get. What has made me smile lately is learning that our precious Wild is the darling of Cambodian high society, who are taking this time to reconnect with their country's nature and explore it with our Bensley Butlers. I so hope that they too, like me, will become custodians of the forest, and that soon we can travel safely once more and I can join our Cambodian guests for a zipline, and can write you a postcard from beside the waterfall…”
In the post-Covid world, our heroes of conservation at Shinta Mani Wild — the @wildlife_alliance — continue to work ceaselessly to protect the Cardamom Forest from poaching, mining and logging.
#3 POSTCARD FROM PANAMA from Patricia Mejias @islapalenque
"It was a tough lockdown for us in Panama. The authorities got creative and tried to stop contact between men and women as much as possible. Women could only leave their homes on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and men could only go out on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. And on Sunday nobody was allowed out. But things are much better now. The international airport is opening for flights on 12 October and life is slowly getting back to normal.
At Isla Palenque in the Gulf of Chiriqui close to the border with Costa Rica, we lived the last six months quite differently. Unlike Panama City with its skyscrapers, on our 400 acres island with seven beaches, social distancing was a piece of cake. There were 23 of us on this tropical island for the past months, staying busy and safe. We all became expert birdwatchers, improved our photography skills, participated in English classes and built a small farm where we harvested vegetable fruits, and even started to raise chickens. We learned to appreciate being in nature during this time when others are locked up in small apartments. And of course, we worked hard to maintain and improve the hotel infrastructure to welcome back our first guests to our Central American resort on 15 October – and we cannot wait!"
#4 POSTCARD FROM HUNGARY from Peter Grundberg @brodyhouse
"Pronouncements and predictions abound during these times — who the F knows what's right or wrong, rational or nonsensical. The Hungarian capital has certainly been hit for six. After lockdown, summer kicked off with Budapesters hitting Lake Balaton, the wine country and embarking on bucolic forays. Now, it's back to school (with masks), working from home and the economic reality is starting to bite. The hospitality boom of the last few years has come to a crashing end and another bout of border closures has proved to be a hard kick in the fiscal proverbials for those that are still standing.
On a more positive/existential note, Budapest is wonderfully calm and her graceful buildings, parks, monuments, hills and river views can be enjoyed without distraction from the hordes. A mercurial and seductive mistress, Budapest is still a regular feature on the silver screen (aka Netflix — we have had a booming film industry here) and the energy will surely bounce back as sunnier times return…”
#5 POSTCARD FROM CANADA from Zita Cobb @fogoisland
“This isn't your usual photo of Fogo Island Inn. Covid-19 brought a forced pause for us. Canada closed its international borders in March and those are yet to reopen. A few months back, travel within Canada started to open up again, but our province of Newfoundland & Labrador decided to keep ‘borders’ closed to all except the small population of Atlantic Canada, preventing not only international travellers but also other Canadians from visiting. As a result, we had to make the difficult decision to remain closed until March 11, 2021.
But the Inn was conceived with a 100-plus-year horizon, and all our projects on Fogo Island were founded on the values of resiliency and a deep love of place; we’re in this for the long haul. So, we’ve kept busy by repainting the Inn (no small feat! As you can see in the photo) and focused on our furniture and textile business @woodshopfogoisland which, like the Inn, brings the natural and cultural assets of Fogo Island to a global audience. We’re heartened by the fact that now more than ever, people seem receptive to living more sustainably and keeping community front of mind; our entire model is based on this. Concepts that have become fashionable in Covid times have been practised here all along, and we’re excited about the potential for a paradigm shift that will see more people more regularly asking themselves questions such as, 'Where does the money go?' and 'How does this purchase or action support local community economies? Newfoundlanders are culturally predisposed to exceptional hospitality, so we really miss our guests, and we can’t wait to reopen our doors in March.”
#6 POSTCARD FROM KENYA from Louise Cottar @cottars.safaris
"Cottar’s 1920s Camp and Villa reopened for guests in August just in time for the start of the annual Great Migration of 1.5 million wildebeest, hundreds of thousands of zebra, gazelle and eland through the Masai Mara. Yet international visitors are yet to return to Kenya in significant numbers. Kenya's Covid death toll is only just over 700 to date (out of a population of 52 million), in large part a result of responsible and early government intervention, wide-reaching safety precautions, a younger and healthier population and possibly an earlier cross-immunity with some other coronaviruses. Low Covid-19 rates combined with nature, wilderness and space to breath make Kenya a compelling place to visit.
We are known for high-end glamorous camping and bespoke villa experiences. And we're proud to be one of the Long Run's Global Ecospheres – there are only 10 worldwide – and we are using this quiet time to go from luxury to regenerative travel, and some would say that it is not a sexy or Instagrammable transition. We believe this refocus will add depth, breadth and purpose to a guest’s experience. The Big Five safari in the Masai Mara is a given, but a deeper dive in relation to our ecosystem, its survival and the unique Masai culture mean we can (and should) offer so much more and our guests can leave the Masai Mara in a better place than when they arrived. Time with our female Masai rangers, walks collecting ingredients for our foraged menu, and the development of a Vulture Rehabilitation Centre (pictured) are some of the expanded experiences we've developed for guests. So we are going from Vogue to Vultures — and we are cool with this!"
#7 POSTCARD FROM ITALY from Lena Evstafieva @villalena
”In the Italian countryside, you don’t feel the effects of the current global situation as much. Back in Florence, the streets are still quiet compared to the usual tourist crush and if you go early to Uffizzi, you can still get Botticelli's Venus all to yourself — an unbelievable luxury. The restaurants fill up in the evenings with locals and tourists, and with the prerequisite, spacing inside they feel busy yet leisurely at the same time. Everyone is still enjoying life, if on a more muted frequency.
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Rural life is, however, very much in the normal routine. We wear masks indoors and sanitise our hands and check our guests' temperatures, but with plenty of space and outdoor lifestyle, even in the autumn, it feels like any day in the countryside would. We don't know what the future holds, whether there will be more lockdowns or restrictions, whether the winter will bring relief or further hardship, but I think this year showed us that we can adapt, that we are more resilient than we thought and that there are always opportunities to innovate."
#8 POSTCARD FROM MYANMAR from Chris Kingsley @waaleresort
“As you can see, the weather is beautiful, the beaches clean and soft and the water very clear. Covid doesn’t affect the travel of our sea turtles and our 250 km sq Lampi Marine National Park continues to be protected against illegal fishing and poaching by both our Wa Ale and Lampi Foundation staff. These two photos show our staff inspecting the sea turtle tracks that the mama sea turtles leave in front of our villas.
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We continue to manage and protect this incredible feat of nature and our staff remain vigilant — and employed — as we ride out the crisis and wait until our guests can return to enjoy the wonders of Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago. Myanmar, as well as the rest of Southeast Asia, has been hit hard by government closures of the borders so that its people can be safe from the virus. Our team, and the warm and welcoming, hard-working people of Myanmar, are ready and waiting to welcome visitors again with open arms to our private island in the Andaman Sea.”
#9 POSTCARD FROM COSTA RICA from Hans Pfister @hotelaguasclaras
“It felt surreal when all tourism came to a stop in late March. Empty beaches, our famous national parks closed, the roads empty. We went from 100 per cent occupancy in February and March to three months of zero occupancy in April, May and June. Just as with everywhere around the world, the wildlife came out to explore the areas that were frequented by tourists before. Sloths, monkeys and deer were frequent visitors in our restaurants and pool areas.
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Then there was an opportunity to reopen to the local market of Costa Ricans. Since the airports were closed for travel abroad, they had the chance to explore their own country. At first, we were sceptical. The Cayuga Collection Hotels were never on the radar of locals. But after a month, we were very pleasantly surprised. So much so, that in August we were able to rehire staff and bring payroll almost back to where we were before. Our local purchases helped start the economies in the rural areas of the country that were hit so hard by the loss of tourism activities. At Aguas Claras in Puerto Viejo on Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast, we had two months of high occupancy which exceeded the numbers from 2019. Not common these days. We are even building a new Caribbean-style Casita right now and we have received our first international guests again. Things are improving. Seeing our staff back at work makes me smile. And it made all the hard work of the last months totally worth it. We are back.”
#10 POSTCARD FROM NORWAY from Torunn Tronsvang @upnorway
“Greetings from Norge, where the autumn colours are giving a stunning seasonal new look to our landscapes. While borders remain closed to international leisure travellers until further notice, Norwegians are roaming the country freely with truly exclusive access to natural and human-made luxury. We are grouse hunting in Sápmi in Northern Norway, travelling in the footsteps of Tom Cruise (who was just here) in the Hjørundfjord-region and Michelin-starred dining in Stavanger. Oslo city is almost empty as its citizens have left for the school holidays and businessfolk are encouraged by the government to work from home.
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Friluftsliv or 'free-air life' — all that you can do in the outdoors from cloudberry picking to fishing and hiking — is booming, even if commercial travel is limited. So, while the sale of outdoor gear is up, local tourism income is still close to nothing. Truthfully, as a travel company which celebrated its fourth birthday this month, we are going through an undeniably challenging time, but we remain immensely grateful to our government who is rewarding healthy and ambitious businesses with financial support. We continue with a positive and optimistic attitude! For as long as regulations are enforced to ensure Norway will continue to be one of the world’s safest travel destinations, we are planning best-ever experiences for our friends from foreign lands in 2021 and 2022. To those of you keen to visit us soon: we have space, fresh air, a network of local insiders who are dying to offer their hospitality and share their stories."
#11 POSTCARD FROM NEPAL from Ang Tshering @beyulex
“For us in Nepal, 2020 was meant to be our year for tourism. Big campaigns and preparations were made in anticipation of #VisitNepal2020 — from the opening of big five-star hotels to family-run guesthouses in all corners of the country. People invested life savings counting on it being the busiest year since Nepal opened to visitors 70 years ago. A beautiful dream turned into the worst nightmare; the shock of this is present everywhere. Nepal's tourism accounts for 8 per cent of the country's GDP: it is responsible for more than a million jobs. With a total halt to tourism, people are unemployed and without government support, left to fend for themselves. An upsetting side effect of the travel ban has been the impact on health. Many need medical attention, especially in remote regions, having not been able to get to hospitals for required care. To make matters worse, with no tourism income, some avoid treatment.
After months of extreme lockdown, we have freedom to move around. The country is set to open for visitors in under two weeks, however, with strict government guidelines, Nepal won't be so hospitable. The guidelines include mandatory seven-day quarantine upon arrival and PCR tests to be taken. The travel and hospitality industry strongly voices opposition to the government's conditions and most hope for a possible amendment. The silver lining is the positive impact on our environment and the many lifeforms dwelling in the dense jungle-covered plains and the high mountains of the Himalayas. Following the ever-growing number of mass travellers in fragile yet important corners of the country, a break like this has done wonders. In July, we decided to postpone all 2020 trips to next year and beyond. To take care of a team that relies on our operations for their livelihood, we've gone to extreme lengths to maintain our full-time workforce and to support our seasonal members. Our fundraiser sparked an overwhelming response of love and support. On average, seasonal members earn US$400 a month, $1,200 a season. Our goal was to raise 50% of their usual income, $600 a person. We raised enough to support 24 individuals. As most are the sole source of income for their families, this means supporting two dozen families until travel resumes. We're also running a five-day health camp in Phaplu with specialist doctors and a medical team from Kathmandu. It provides much-needed treatments and medicines. Through this, we're bringing the services to people otherwise unable to get medical attention. I remain ever grateful that through our work in the travel and hospitality sector, we can support our community and create employment. Times are tough, but we are filled with a greater determination to carry on. A thought I leave with you: "be like the lotus: trust in the light, grow through the dirt and believe in new beginnings”.
#12 POSTCARD FROM MAURITIUS Ashish Modak @luxresorts
“It's been heart-warming to see such solidarity during these times. Since Mauritius closed its borders at the end of March, it's been challenging for many locals, since we’re all highly reliant on international tourism — a fifth of our Indian Ocean island's workforce is employed in tourism. When villagers living near our hotel needed help with basic necessities, our team came together quickly to donate out of their own pockets.
The last six months have also been a period of reflection and learning. Team members at LUX* Belle Mare decided to use this time to keep fit and healthy, and boost one another’s morale and motivation. We kept in touch through regular online town halls with hundreds of team members and gratitude was shown to essential workers by baking and bringing them pastries, while upgrading our own skills and knowledge.
My wife and I started a little organic garden and were thrilled when the first green shoots started sprouting in the yard! We are so grateful to be able to have appreciated the downtime and take time to pause, reflect and reset. Now that LUX* Belle Mare is open again, we’ve implemented several well-being experiences for our guests so as to continue this mindful exploration. We look forward to welcoming our international friends back to the idyllic paradise island soon — whenever that may be."
#13 POSTCARD FROM PAPUA NEW GUINEA Felicity and Nathan, founders @oceania_expeditions
“As the sun shone, coconut palms heavy with fruit, swaying in the breeze, turtles came to nest on their usual beaches off azure seas and children played in the fields — while the rest of the world moved to lockdowns and Covid-19 cases grew expediently, life in the tropical South Pacific continued in many ways, as it always does. In Papua New Guinea, communities planted and harvested from their communal gardens, selling and trading at their local markets. Life continues as normal in some ways, though there’s been the devastating impact of unemployment for many, across nations heavily dependent upon tourism, and PNG’s only animal rescue centre Port Moresby nature park is threatened with closure.
People have been forced, through necessity, to return to their villages for survival and unlike many in the West, few furlough schemes are offered. Creative communities began trading goods rather than relying upon currency as a form of payment. They’re praying for a return to tourism soon as some nations here have had no coronavirus cases at all since the pandemic began. For us at Oceania Expeditions, it is a fine balancing act; we have tried to support suppliers where can in small ways and while we’re ever-hopeful tourism can return to the region we’re extremely mindful of the potentially catastrophic outcomes that uncontrolled Covid-19 outbreaks would have upon the already overwhelmed and under-resourced healthcare facilities across the countries we work with: Fiji, New Caledonia, Tonga, Vanuatu, West Papua, Cook Islands, French Polynesia, Solomons Islands. It’s an ethical and moral dilemma, but one we believe we all need to be mindful of as we journey into the future.”
#14 POSTCARD FROM PRINCIPE AND SAO TOME from Malcolm Couch @hbd_principe
“HBD Príncipe has a strong commitment to the local community, so all that we do is of significance to everyone in Príncipe. Our founder, Mark Shuttleworth, sent a humanitarian flight with medical protection equipment such as masks, gloves, tests and oxygen masks for the people of the island, to help in the fight against this pandemic. During this time of uncertainty, we've been implementing new procedures and taking maximum precautions in our hotels — Sundy, Bom Bom, Roça, Omali. And all our team members have received ongoing training and guidelines about new cleaning and hygiene procedures.
If we all do our best to protect ourselves and others, we'll be able to face the situation better — overcoming challenges is in our DNA. To avoid more serious situations, HBD Príncipe in partnership with the regional government made Bom Bom hotel available for the isolation unit of the most vulnerable people on our island off the west coast of Africa in the Gulf of Guinea. Bom Bom is currently a safe environment with a dedicated team properly trained by health entities which means it guarantees support in terms of healthcare, food and safety. We loved the way the President of the Regional Government described this initiative as the 'protection of the encyclopaedia of Príncipe' in recognition of us welcoming historians, artists, healers, and more, with fascinating stories to tell and whose reports we are trying to obtain and save this registration. It's critical this knowledge doesn’t get lost over time and its passed on to future generations and all those who want to know more about the history of this unique place in the Cameroon Line archipelago. This project started in May and will continue until Príncipe is declared Covid-free. Príncipe Island is one of the few places in the world that has had no fatalities and until now we've only had 30 cases confirmed, all recovered. October 8th marked the 100th day without any positive cases — an amazing milestone. For HBD Príncipe people come first and our commitment to the community is stronger than ever. Yes, we are also making improvements at the hotels, and we are preparing new activities for future guests and we look forward to welcoming all when we reopen, hopefully, first quarter of 2021."
#15 POSTCARD FROM ISRAEL from Hannah Blumin @pomegranate_travel
“Israel has raised its profile as a tourist destination in recent years, with visitor numbers almost doubling in the last five. As a luxury Israel travel business, the biggest stress points for us have been keeping up with demand and finding new ways to help clients access increasingly overcrowded sites. We went from an out-of-control workload to an eerie zero; this pandemic has impacted everyone in the industry from those working in hotels and restaurants to the many specialist guides who bring the country alive for visitors. Tourists haven't been allowed to enter since March; while at first, the country had the virus impressively under control, that's no longer the case, and we're now in our second lockdown.
Luckily the government is providing a safety net for employees, but many of our guides are using skills to find alternative employment in the short term. One of our most-loved personalities grew up on a kibbutz (collective farm) and has returned to be a tractor-driving farmer. Our brilliant adventure guide has started cleaning windows/performing repairs for high-rise buildings where the work requires their rappelling skills. Our desert guide is also a paramedic and has been working as an on-site medic and virus tester at a desert-based hi-tech park. We are fortunate to get some government help, but we're all mourning the loss of what we love to do. In Israel those seeking their fortune head to the tech sector, while folks in tourism are generally drawn to this industry out of a love for sharing this country — in all its complexity and diversity, with the outside world. We are waiting for a vaccine or some other solution so that we can get back to what we love.”
#16 POSTCARD FROM MEXICO from Laura Esquivel, author @chocolate.esquivel
"It is said that the only true travel is to paradise. In that sense, the confinement that was imposed as a measure to face the pandemic, cancelled the possibility of travelling and with it the possibility of reaching that idyllic place. Suddenly we had to stay indoors to avoid contagion. And along with this, the simple idea of travelling around the world was suspended in time. However, in my particular case, the pandemic became a wonderful tourist guide that made me visit unknown places and left me many lessons. The two most important were reaffirming that:
1) We are energy-beings in constant movement and in total interconnection with the world that surrounds us. Nothing can paralyse us. With every thought, or emotion we experience we are traveling thousands of miles.
2) We are not isolated. We are not atomised. We live within a universe and the universe lives within us. The confinement has allowed me to see things that I did not see before. Appreciate spaces that previously went unnoticed. I have had time to converse with my plants and myself. With my eyes closed, and in total silence and tranquillity, I have been able to remember my true nature. I have travelled intensely within myself to confirm that indeed every true trip is to paradise. To that place where fear does not exist, where light reigns.
Not all confinement is a place of punishment. It is in waiting, in inactivity, where many things happen. Thoughts take shape, sounds pulse. Magic happens when word and thought come together. And it is in that moment when a new pulse animates the heart of paradise lost that is reborn within us." — Laura Esquivel, author of Like Water for Chocolate (Como agua para chocolate).
Fiction is one of the most powerful ways for us to travel right now, and Laura Esquivel's latest book #TitasDiary, out now, takes an intimate look at the life of her world-famous 1989 bestselling novel’s main character, and lets us experience love, passion and the fullest flavours of early 20th Century México, without leaving home…
#17 POSTCARD FROM ARGENTINA from Sharilyn Amy @oceanopatagonia and @horsesandtravel_dmc
“September to December are the busiest months for Océano Patagonia, our boutique eco-hotel on the Argentine coast. It's when our protected bay is filled with hundreds of whales and their newly-born calves — and it's usually a time when our two-street village pulses with the joy of visitors seeing the magnificent marine life in our Unesco World Heritage Site and Peninsula Valdés biosphere reserve. This year, with Argentina’s international and internal borders closed since March, the only sounds to be heard are those of the whales breathing, penguins calling, sea lions trumpeting, and elephant seals groaning as they roll their enormous bodies over while they bathe in the sun. Paradise — despite the uncertainty. As an award-winning sustainably-developed project, our focus has always been on caring for this special location and the people who live here. Puerto Piramídes village relies on tourism for its livelihood; we've been in close contact with our furloughed employees and their extended families to ensure they have the resources to weather the storm. We're one of few sources of employment and we're using this time to undertake top-to-bottom maintenance, refinishing counters, decks and our rooftop terrace.
We miss the shiny, awestruck eyes of our guests who travel from around the globe to visit what National Geographic considers the best place in the world to see whales. A few days with us exploring this magical reserve and its many protected species reorientates all understanding of our global responsibility to the natural world. As we wait for borders to reopen and prepare for a safe, summer season of beach time, snorkelling, trekking and diving with sea lions, we continue to bring teachable moments to audiences everywhere, through online presentations. Come learn about the magic of Peninsula Valdés — we'd love to share her story with you, even if you can't join us here where you can see whales from your bed."
#18 POSTCARD FROM SRI LANKA from Chamintha Jayasinghe @ayuinthewild
"Maybe it’s the islander effect, but a quiet resilience has been ingrained in Sri Lanka’s DNA for centuries. We yearn to support the larger conservation efforts, but this may need to wait until our philanthropic journeys resume… There is not a day when our staff don’t reach out in small ways, creating market linkages for women entrepreneurs, or assisting an area guide’s family, teaching English through our Classrooms in the Wild project or setting up dance therapy for challenged kids. We're also quietly celebrating as more voices that matter are endorsing our Sustainable Travel Sri Lanka initiative @sustainabletravelsrilanka. This champions low-footfall conscious travel because we believe that destinations that are deep-rooted in culture and nature must handle visitor numbers more judiciously than those who are richer in synthetic experiences.
Honestly, the industry remains decimated after the pandemic dealt a double blow after the cowardly Easter attacks of 2019. Yet, for those of us who have stoically refused to bow, efforts to embrace stringent Covid health and safety protocols have taken centre stage. Ayu in the Wild staff are ever fine-tuning the elevated hygiene standards with an infectious diseases specialist who will continue to be our Covid-19 safety consultant when borders open. Sri Lanka has coped well to completely contain the spread for months (bar a cluster that surfaced a few weeks ago) and domestic tourism has surged since June from the starkly beautiful north to the diverse south. The 'Safe and Secure' compliance certification is a painfully slow approach to resuming tourism, but it will enhance the allure of Sri Lanka’s epic open spaces and intimate escapes – everything a discerning traveller seeks in a safe destination — and we look forward to welcoming the rest of the world back here."
#19 POSTCARD FROM BOTSWANA from James Wilson @desertdelta
"Africa, as a continent is one of the least affected by the virus itself — but it goes without saying, the global pandemic and resulting lockdowns have hit our industry hard. Each government is handling the situation as they see fit, doing what’s best for their people, but having so many put African countries such as Botswana on a ‘do not visit’ red list has been absurd. Our guests spend almost all of their day in the outdoors on safari. Dining is alfresco, activities take place through open 4WD game-drive vehicles or boats, public areas are all open-air and the luxury rooms at our small properties are spaced out and open with fresh air moving through them.
Since the early 2000s, Chobe Game Lodge has been making waves in eco-tourism in Botswana's safari industry, becoming the first African safari operators to have a fleet of electric game-drive vehicles and safari boats. This leading sustainable tourism development project presents a silent, smooth way of visiting the world-renowned Chobe National Park and has cut down on thousands of tons of C02 emissions. Despite everything that’s going on we’ve managed to band together and build confidence that we will still be here, ready and waiting, and greener than ever when borders open and travel is allowed. And, during this time, as a company, we’ve managed to raise more than $10,000 for a vital conservation effort in the Chobe National Park.”
#20 POSTCARD FROM ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA from Eli Fuller @antiguan
“We live in a Small Island Developing State that's totally reliant upon tourism, so Covid has hit us pretty hard here in Antigua and Barbuda. Up to 90% of our economic activity and employment was tourism. I grew up in my grandparents' hotel and I have lived and worked in tourism for almost all of my 48 years and the gap between the haves and the have-nots has always been significant here in Antigua, and with changes being made to protect the big businesses that keep this country afloat, the gap between rich and poor looks to widen significantly. Travel bubbles shouldn't be used to cut out small local entrepreneurs.
Antigua was one of the first islands in the Caribbean to abandon colonial-designed agriculture and embrace tourism, and without streams and rivers, it's harder for us to alleviate the strain on food security that we are now seeing. As tourism is reshaped and reopens slowly, it's so important for visitors to consider 'fair tourism' where local people are helped tangibly through direct financial interaction or through trickledown economic activity that's clearly visible. It shouldn't be the rich getting richer and the poor getting poorer from Covid-19 — we need a new tourism model. Buying local and supporting local businesses has never been more important and ethical tourism is something that will mean the survival of communities in small and developing states such as Antigua and Barbuda."
#21 POSTCARD FROM ZIMBABWE from Beks Ndlovu @africanbushcamps
“Just like a pangolin curls up when under attack, we hunkered down for a six-month ‘curl up’ period, which we thought would only be for a few weeks. We’ve always welcomed local tourism and promoted favourable local rates and when African Bush Camps lodges and camps reopened 1 September, we were delighted to welcome guests back on safari. Throughout lockdown, our camps remained operational with staff carrying out upkeep and guides acting as custodians of our environment, our eyes and ears on the ground as we waited for tourists to return. It’s been an opportunity to share skills and learn from each other. Our chefs went on guided game drives to learn from the guides and visa versa, and we developed new CV-19 protocols to keep our staff and returning guests safe.
The halt of tourism in our national parks has made our wildlife extremely vulnerable. Desperate times accelerate the need for people to hunt for food and we’ve seen a rise in snares. As a safari operator, it’s our responsibility to support the rangers and reach out to the communities, not only for basic needs but with positive influence. I grew up alongside these communities, and I know that it's only by working together that we can conserve these wilderness areas. I can only urge people to visit us, to help us sustain the means to protect it. If there are positives to be taken from this global crisis, then it's been an opportunity for tourists and tourism providers to assess how we can improve practices. Travel can be a stronger force for good if we all shift towards a more responsible and thoughtful way of being that reduces overtourism, fight carbon emissions, and increase contribution to local communities."
#22 POSTCARD FROM PHUKET from Anthony Lark @phuketha
“Here in Phuket — where I moved to in 1988 as the opening GM for Amanpuri, Aman’s first-ever resort — up to 50,000 job losses are expected to have been lost in the hotel sector. It’s a similar story in island destinations around the world. More than a hundred million travel and hospitality jobs will go in 2020 due to Covid-19. Let that figure sit with you for a moment. The devastating impact of that number can only be upstaged by the profound loss of life, globally.
Four months have passed with no local infections on Phuket. Yet passenger arrivals have plunged 65% from January through July, year on year. There are no imminent signs of recovery, despite the country opening up domestic air travel: guests from Bangkok have become our weekend warriors. Thailand — the first country to detect the coronavirus outside China — deserves high praise for its decisive actions in late March that successfully stopped the spread. But by closing the tourist-friendly kingdom to foreigners, the country’s leading resort island now finds itself at an inflexion point. What I know — from leading Amanpuri through the 1997 Asian financial crisis, helping create and operate Trisara resort for 20 years through SARS, 2004’s Boxing Day tsunami — is that we can't stand still indefinitely, simply because we are in unknown territory. The Thai government is discussing ‘green bridges’ that may allow entry from regions with little or no Covid-19 infections, such as New Zealand, Singapore, Taiwan, parts of China and Australia. In this start-stop race towards a new normal, I find myself offering the same advice to my fellow hoteliers: we will need to work like never before and get out ahead of guest expectations. Sincere hospitality will matter more than ever.”
#23 POSTCARD FROM TURKMENISTAN from Artem, guide @steppes_travel
“Our country hasn’t been affected by the pandemic the same way as most others, so we can hardly complain. Turkmenistan's borders have been closed for general travel since the spring, when the World Health Organisation declared a state of global emergency, but life inside our country continues in its usual way, and we feel almost as if watching a thriller film rather than being a part of the action.
We cannot travel abroad nor can you visit our country, unless you’re a member of a high-level official delegation or diplomatic mission. This creates serious challenges for travel companies, most of which have shut their offices, continuing online with reduced staff. We've saved almost all the members of our team, occupying ourselves with the secondary issues that we don’t usually have time to deal with in a normal season, communicating the details of future tours with our overseas partners, both inbound and outbound. Other travel-related providers are compelled to make difficult choices too, with hotels and restaurants partially closed and transport companies either competing for local orders or transforming their garage spaces into vehicle-service facilities.
Those not directly involved in the travel business continue their lives almost unaffected. Confirming that we are a clean country WHO's specialists, nevertheless, strongly recommended we introduce preventive steps just in case and we're now keeping a 2-metre distance and wearing face masks during crowded events or within indoors public areas. People are free to go to work or shopping, picnicking, cycling, hiking or jogging in parks, and we still see a lot of children playing in the yards or in stadiums when my wife and daughter and I go for our usual evening walk.”
#24 POSTCARD FROM NEW ZEALAND from Christopher Hill @impactdestinations
“Despite life for most New Zealanders being back to near-normal, by closing the national borders, the travel industry is suffering desperately. Our luxury lodges and hotels will feel this most acutely from December, as this is normally the start of the busy season when the lodges usually need to have been booked months in advance. It could be seen as a boon for those New Zealanders in these times with sufficient disposable income to enjoy these luxury lodges. This remarkable country we Kiwis are so proud to call home, and a backyard we so frequently skipped in favour of exploring other parts of the world, can now be enjoyed with fewer tourists around.
New Zealand is roughly the same size as the UK, with a population of only 4 million. So you rarely feel starved of space. Yet hiking tracks such as the Tongariro Crossing have become so famous internationally that there were queues to walk it; now, thanks to closed borders, it is the perfect time for New Zealanders to conquer this magnificent trail. Wildlife is flourishing due to the lockdown: native bird species are doing well, and I'm delighted to wake up each morning to the sounds of tuis and bellbirds. I also recently had an incredible encounter on my paddleboard with a large pod of orcas in our bay. Tourism and related sectors account for 10 per cent of NZ’s GDP, so the closed borders are tough, but when they do reopen, Kiwis will be happier than ever to welcome you with our hospitality."
#25 POSTCARD FROM JORDAN from @jasmoh99, guide @intrepidtravel
“It was so hard for me to stop doing what I love – working as a tour guide – when we suddenly faced lockdown, I was stuck in my house. We don’t have foreign tourists in Jordan now and it is hard for me, but I’ve kept myself busy giving free English lessons to kids and doing some volunteer work. I also keep myself busy with exercises like swimming and learning international recipes on YouTube! Our government and the Ministry of Tourism created a special programme that makes cheap tours around Jordan for local Jordanians, which is to help us working in tourism get over the pandemic. Speaking of this Corona nightmare, I pray that 2021 is going to be good, safe and without problems. I adore travelling and working in tourism. I make new friends, learn new vocabulary, learn about other cultures, gain more experience, discover new places and increase my knowledge day-to-day about life. I don’t want to have too high expectations, but I am so excited to work again and meet new people and show them beautiful Jordan, an open-air museum of archaeological riches.”
#26 POSTCARD FROM SWITZERLAND from Chantal Desroche-Wäger @chantalandmaxswisstraveldesign
“We’re happy to say that Switzerland is — for the most part — back in business. The situation for tourism is not clear at the moment though, as sanitary measures and travel limitations are ever-evolving. We've been impressed with how hospitality has adapted activity to the highest standards of safety and hygiene, with minimal negative impact on guest experience. This summer was tougher for cities than our mountain destinations, as is to be expected — mercifully, some Alpine hotels said it’s been their best summer ever thanks to Swiss and European travellers seeking fresh air and the vast outdoor spaces. Let’s face it: Switzerland’s renowned 'clean and safe' status is certainly a plus now more than ever. Most mountain resorts have closed for the shoulder season: we’re curious to see how things pick up again for what is usually a festive winter ski season. We hope that tourism will return for our beautiful historical cities after an abrupt crash not only due to less leisure, but because these destinations are heavily reliant on business meetings and events. It’s heart-wrenching to see properties forced to close due to occupancies never surpassing 10 per cent. While companies adopt new time- and budget-saving habits of online meetings, it is concerning to see major public events such as the famous Montreux Christmas Market or the Geneva Car Show having to cancel their next editions. We only hope that all of our efforts in terms of medical and hygiene protocols all pay off quickly, and we can welcome all of our usual travellers, and all their interests, back to visit us again soon!”
#27 POSTCARD FROM COLOMBIA from Cristina Consuegra @galavanta
“Cartagena was once one of Latin America’s most-coveted destinations, with streets full of travellers, buzzing restaurants and bars, and a thriving economy, which although informal and unfortunately unequal, it moved the city forward. We spent six months under strict lockdown, and on 1 September rejoiced as life started coming back to normal. During the lockdown, we spent days walking the streets, saddened by all the foreclosure signs and closed doors at businesses of friends who had spent years of effort, sacrifices and investment — all lost at the mercy of a virus and government policies. After two months, we returned to our neighbourhood Getsemani, in Cartagena’s Old City, to find our neighbours full of hope and relief with international flights starting 1 October. We’ve spent recent days visiting friends whose businesses survived and who are thrilled to be reopening for the first time in six months — even if it only serving a handful of tables at a time. We’ve walked through plazas taken over by kids playing futbol and old men playing dominos — locals rediscovering their city and reuniting with friends. Yes, the pandemic has destroyed our businesses, taken away loved ones, and changed our lives — but in Colombia, we are full of hope that the worst is behind us. People are working tirelessly to adapt to this new normal. We all hope that travellers won’t be afraid of Colombia again, that tourism will come back so we can once again feel the passion of showing off our country, and feel that pride and gratitude when a foreigner tells us how much they love it."
#28 POSTCARD FROM BHUTAN from Jonathan Lithgow @AmankoraBhutan
“The Desuung — the Kingdom of Bhutan's volunteer force called the Guardians of Peace — was created by His Majesty a few years ago, and during the pandemic, we've been so proud to have 68 members of our team join this programme. I've witnessed intense pride from the Bhutanese through a nationwide effort to protect loved ones, friends and neighbours, in the magical country that I've called home since taking on the role of General Manager at our five distinct lodges at the end of 2019.
Amankora was the first international hotel to open in Bhutan, and we've always been committed to supporting our local communities. With the uncertainty of borders reopening before the end of the year, our team has had more time and energy to dedicate to local causes. Amansantis have helped with the rebuilding of the Wangdue Dzong, a temple in Punakha which was almost entirely destroyed in a fire, and the hoisting of new prayer flags in sacred spots in Thimphu, as well as the delivery of food and essentials to the monks of Tiger’s Nest in Paro.
Bhutan's population is small, and we are surrounded by pristine Himalayan countryside, so we work in harmony with nature. Throughout lockdown, our team shared vegetables from our gardens and eggs from our chickens. We recently planted a small orchard at every lodge, the fruit trees intended to blossom seasonally, to commemorate the months worst hit by the pandemic and signify new life and optimism."
#29 POSTCARD FROM EGYPT from Yomna Salama, guide @abercrombiekent
"I just returned to Cairo from a trip to Dahab in Sinai by the Red Sea, amazing for diving, snorkelling, watersports: kitesurfing and windsurfing on the Gulf of Akkaba. When you visit towns in Egypt away from the big cities, you feel as though there is no Covid-19… It’s like it doesn’t exist as there are no cases in comparison to the cities. People working in tourism have been severely affected by these times, and I've been jobless since March 2020. There’s not been a single tour — all my groups were on put hold, then postponed, some cancelled entirely — you can imagine how bad it is trying to survive without any income, and many have no savings to live on.
Egyptians learn to adapt, recover quickly and find solutions. We suffered during the so-called Arab Spring in 2011 and the mess we had until 2014, but now the government is in strong hands. A little financial assistance was given from the government to help people working in the tourism sector, but it is not enough to help you pay all your bills — at least it shows they are trying to help and they understand our situation. All the touristic sites are open with restrictions and safety precautions and hotels are operating at 25% capacity. There was a visit by the delegation of the World Tourism Organisation’s Secretary-General who spoke highly of the precautions undertaken in Egypt to welcome tourism back.
Domestic tourism is helping the economy and Egyptians are travelling to the north coast and the Red Sea for holidays — no cases reported there which is a great sign. There are so few tourists in the historical sites, those here are the lucky ones to enjoy Egypt without mass tourism. I spoke to some I met and they are very happy, saying that travelling to Egypt now is the best possible time for such a life experience. Egyptians are gradually getting back to normal life and we are looking forward to having you in Egypt soon to show you our land and its people.”
#30 POSTCARD FROM GREECE from Andria Mitsakos @Wanderlista
"As someone who runs a travel and hospitality PR firm, my business of course took a hit this year, especially with Europe shut to all travellers from the US. Our Greek hotel clients had a less-than-satisfactory summer season; August inbound was down 73%. While uncertainty was the only certainty, what could we do? Despite crisis or pandemic, the Greek spirit cannot be suppressed. This summer, I was able to spend time with friends in the hotel industry who are usually running on adrenaline instead of rosé. Did they complain that business was terrible? Absolutely. Did we spend evenings under the stars in Paros contemplating what was going to happen? Yes, that too. The vibe was positive but not optimistic, yet we laughed, cried, danced, philosophised. We will never have a summer like that again, and we knew it. And our industry will change drastically, yet there was something magical about our time, which is important to celebrate. Time being the operative word. I used my months on the island of Paros to renovate a farmhouse, design a hotel, and turn what had been more of side-gig sourcing for hotels, and dabbling in product and furniture design, to make it something solid. I designed a collection of artisanal, Greek objects now sold online, and launched a creative consultancy for the hospitality industry: @anthologistliving was born. Back in Athens, I’m reminded of how lucky I am to live here during the pandemic, and why you should travel here if you can. A consummate city break with an incredible past, yet an eye on the future, Athens increased its dedication to being more sustainable through an urban restructuring plan by Mayor @kostasbakoyannis increasing pedestrian zones, cycling lanes, and bringing nature into our dense cityscape. So while it’s a write-off of a year, it’s been better than ever creatively. Crisis breeds creativity, and I’m ever humbled by my neighbours — the Ancients — as they keep a watchful eye over us. Socrates words from 400BC are as relevant today: The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.”
#31 POSTCARD FROM AUSTRALIA from Michelle Matthews @LuckieGuides @SECRETSHQ
“Life in Melbourne has been devoid of the things that make it so famously liveable, the incredible restaurant and bar scene, a vibrant arts community and a packed calendar of sporting events. Our lockdown has been one of the most prolonged and most extreme globally, and it will likely persist until our fortnightly rolling average gets down to single digits. Yep, while the rest of the world was going about its business, we've been masked and cautious, only recently relieved of our 8pm to 5am curfew we are now permitted to travel up to 25 kilometres from home. Everything but chemists and food stores were closed but hair salons have re-opened.
The national borders are effectively shut. Australia is an island with tens of thousands of people trying to get out and just as many trying to get in. A dual nationality buddy came in on his Australian passport and couldn't get permission from the government to leave. His little French farmhouse summered without him. Compulsory and managed hotel quarantine for two weeks is required for all who arrive from overseas. So those of us without an ocean-going launch will likely stay put for most of 2021.
Victoria is one of the smaller states, but we don't lack for beaches, mountains, bush and natural beauty. Narrowing my focus to consider my state my whole world for the next year is the state of mind I've adopted to quell my global wanderlust. Victoria is about the size of the United Kingdom and only a little smaller than California. I could spend almost half a year visiting a different wine here region every weekend. And also we adapt and innovate. Living within 5kms of one of the world's best restaurants, @atticamelbourne has meant monthly luxe dining at home. And now the city's favourite restaurants are available for delivery thanks to the incredible COVID startup @providoor.”
#32 POSTCARD FROM PERU from Petit Miribel @solylunahotel
"I’ve seen the full circle here my three decades in Peru's Sacred Valley! When I arrived in 1990—I'm originally from France—there were no hotels and few tourists. As the years have ticked by, we've been grateful for the growth in tourism — especially for the high-end, sustainability-minded traveller, because we founded our hotel in order to act as the engine that would power our foundation. The Sol y Luna Foundation cares for and educates 250 children thanks to hotel bookings and kind donations, so we rely on guests for our work. Now we find ourselves in this never-imagined situation, where Machu Picchu has been left just for the llamas… yes we plan to be among the first ones back to Machu Picchu when it opens, but I urge travellers to avoid deciding what their favourite part of the trip is before they have experienced it — many of our guests come to Peru for Machu Picchu but leave saying that the thing that will stay in their hearts forever is an unexpected moment — perhaps sharing a morning with a local family out in the fields, perhaps setting out into the valley one of our Peruvian paso horses passing through small local villages and ending up with a panoramic view taking over an Inca site that is not in the guidebooks, and is all the more valuable for it."
#33 POSTCARD FROM THE MALDIVES from Armando Kraenzlin @fsmaldives
“As more airlines are resuming their flights to Male, it’s blue skies ahead in the Maldives. Almost all resorts have re-opened, live-aboards have lifted anchor and the guesthouses on the local islands are also receiving guests. In the reservations office it’s great to hear the phones ringing again. We started the year with record bookings, then Covid appeared and everyone stayed away. Instead of guests, we welcomed turtles to the island to lay their eggs… and hens! We’ve got a new chilli orchard and the Ayurvedic garden has never looked better. No need to go snorkelling or diving – the mantas come right to the beach these days. Our team can’t play football as usual and instead they practice yoga, the guitar and some have even dabbled in vegetarianism. And the GM finally completed his Hindi course… With all this newfound goodness, we’re more than ready for the festive season.” —
#34 POSTCARD FROM JAPAN from Julia Maeda and Lauren Scharf @tokyopersonalised @nippondiscovery
"2020 was going to be the year for the hospitality industry in Japan and it was a hard blow when the Olympics were postponed; we had such exciting plans! It has been particularly tough for the amazing people we work with in the off-the-beaten-track locations that we are so passionate about, as there are few other opportunities available. A silver lining of this year however is is that the Japanese government is finally addressing the 'tourism pollution’ seen in cities such as Kyoto, and has shifted its focus to promoting lesser-known locations, anticipating the appeal of low populations, natural beauty, and raw authenticity when visitors are able to return.
One such location is the Shirakami Sanchi National Park. Part of Japan’s ‘deep north’ many consider this to be one of the few remaining places where one can experience the true culture of Japan. With its harsh winters and volatile natural environment, it is a place where ichigo ichie (meaning now or never) reminds people to cherish any interaction as it cannot be repeated. One of only four Unesco Natural World Heritage sites in Japan, its celebrated for spectacular coastal and forest scenery, diverse hiking, fabulous cuisine, famously warm hospitality, and of course, Akita puppies. The mountains, covered in protected 8,000-year-old virgin beech forest, are a spiritual destination, as well as a superb location for shinrin-yoku (forest bathing). Arrive at the airport on 8, 18 or 28 of each month, and you’re greeted by Akita puppies, the dates in honour of the Japanese number 8 (hachi), and Japan’s famously loyal Akita, Hachiko. Our treat though was a home-cooked feast on the Shirakami Sanchi peaks, made with mushrooms foraged from the forest as we hiked.”
#35 POSTCARD FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA from @peggymarkel @gowithpeggy in Colorado
"What an historic time. We are ready to put our country back on track. No outbound travel has given us the opportunity to love our own country again. We look forward to turning the wheels of international travel as a force for good when the Covid dust settles. We are breathing easier as Americans are elated to have a powerful woman in the White House as a Vice President! America is looking really beautiful right now.”
#36 POSTCARD FROM INDONESIA from Ronald Akili, founder @potatoheadbali
"The pandemic has hit the Balinese hard. Even though the virus gives the island itself a breathing space from the masses, people are suffering from job losses and lack of money. There is something else that stands out these days. The residents are increasingly pursuing one of their great passions. The Hindu Balinese consider flying kites to be lucky charms — so it is perhaps no coincidence that there are so many in the sky at the moment also the ex-pats and the locals are moving closer together, while many locals have returned to farming and agriculture, both on land and sea. Seaweed farming has ramped back up again in Nusa Lembongan and the channel in between Nusa Cenigan. As well as some sustainability education efforts that are organically happening with the plastic exchange initiatives — locals can trade trash for rice in a new barter programme — where people are understanding the value in waste. So maybe this is the perfect time to hit the reset button for Bali? We are now experiencing Bali as it should be: no traffic, no pollution, no motorbikes parked everywhere, it’s perfect, except there is no money…
The world will be different post-Covid, people’s expectations will change and the market will be smaller. When we go back to the markets we need a great story to tell. ‘Come back to a new Bali, we have new pedestrian zones, we have no traffic, no pollution, no waste on the beaches or in the rivers. All the things you wanted changed, we have changed. And we are Covid compliant. We need to prepare for post Covid-19 with new ideas to help industry, employment and the environment. After so many setbacks, Koster wants to put Bali's economy on more pillars in the future than just tourism, including the innovation sector and the manufacturing industry. Environmental preservation is also a priority for Ayu Gayatri Kresna, a traditional chef in Bengkala Village, North Bali. She feels that the island 'needs to consider returning to quality tourism, where guests appreciate and participate in preserving the sustainability of nature, culture, and traditions'. Cultural tourism should be one of the foundations of Bali’s new era, says Jero Mangku Istri Alas Arum, who was ordained as a Hindu priest at the age of eight in Batur, northeast Bali. 'There is a cultural and spiritual sanctity that we must maintain in Bali. When this is protected, tourism will be sustainable.’ Wise words."
Interiors of the new Potato Head Studio hotel in Bali use recycled plastics and planet-friendly materials conceptualised by celebrated British designers Max Lamb and Faye Toogood, and brought to life by Balinese artisans using indigenous materials and techniques.
#37 POSTCARD FROM IRAN from @yasnnaaaaa, tour guide for @IntrepidTravel
“During the 80s and 90s, picking the career of a tour guide was pushing traditional boundaries as a young, modern woman in such a conservative country. It's been a wonderful opportunity to meet people from all around the world, and although it has meant living out of a suitcase since 2007 for me, and not that much privacy, it is worth it. Every job has its ups and its downs.
As we know, the tourism industry is not just about travelling. There are so many businesses indirectly connected with it. Supporting tourism is the best way to help the local economy. Tourism was actually really strong in Iran just before the virus. Covid has, of course, hit most industries, especially tourism, in a big way. We were locked down for almost more than two months, then gradually most businesses restarted – except tourism. Now, locals have cautiously started short trips and so I switched my career to the marketing of domestic tourism. Besides all the dark sides of the pandemic in every aspect of our life, I’ve had a good amount of time to care about myself, enjoy my hometown of Shiraz and play with my cat. A big achievement of this time has been losing about 9 kilos — it’s easy to get in shape when you can’t eat out!
Aside from all the ups and the downs, I’m very positive about the future of tourism. And here in Iran, with its diverse climate and the friendliest people you could ever meet, you can be skiing near Tehran or sunbathing and chilling by the Persian Gulf. High mountains and epic scenery make it a perfect destination for nature lovers. And if you’re a foodie, it’s heaven with the taste of saffron, spices and seasoning. I hope one day soon you can come and see the Golestan Palace, the Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Esfahan’s bazaars — Iran deserves to be on everyone's bucket list. Truly.” —Yasna, Shiraz, Iran a tour guide for Intrepid Travel
#38 POSTCARD FROM SOUTH AFRICA from @murphybenbenmurphy of Bouteco, in the Western Cape
"The welcome news our borders are open to international travel for the first time in eight months underlines how long and hard lockdown's been for us. Jobs lost, freedoms curtailed, but many lives saved. With even local leisure travel prohibited for most of the year, tourism has been hit hard. We’ve witnessed many positive responses to this crisis, with communities, companies and individuals setting up soup kitchens and distributing food parcels to those who saw their modest incomes vanish overnight. We’ve also seen a colossal effort to distribute reusable cloth masks, upcycled by volunteers from offcuts.
Our friends at Grootbos have a not-for-profit foundation which leads community outreach and education programmes. Siyakhula (‘growing the future’) is their organic farm providing skills and income for women from local townships; Green Futures offers accessible courses in horticulture, hospitality and guiding and the Football Foundation runs daily sports training for 8,400 young people every year. During 2020, even without tourist revenue, they have continued to conserve their natural surroundings and serve their communities, providing 297,000 meals, 15,300 washable cloth masks, and 10,150 sanitiser packs to protect vulnerable people since April.
We still have a partial curfew, some irksome rules on gatherings and limited capacities in public places. Hand-sanitising and elbow bumps have become second nature. Still, a degree of cautious optimism is creeping in as businesses reopen and money begins to filter down to the extended families supported by each job in our industry.
South Africa is still an extraordinary destination and businesses continue to uplift their employees in ways that governments struggle to. Lockdown has taught us to appreciate our wild spaces. Now we must rebuild our economy in a way which respects our precious natural resources, and hope that returning visitors will support socially and environmentally conscious enterprises, such as Grootbos Private Nature Reserve."
#39 POSTCARD FROM THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC from Sabrina Cambiaso @godomrep
"While the tourists have been absent, nature has flourished. The national Bayahíbe rose in the Cotubanamá National Park has flowered, the Yaque del Norte River runs clear, sparkling and brimming with fish, and the cocoa crop has been blooming! The beautiful violetear hummingbirds have been singing, and we’ve all been practising the merengue for when we’re allowed to carnival again.
One of the positive things to have come from the pandemic is the Alto de las Manaclas project. The first of its kind, glamping accommodation for tourists. The project is a sustainable, ecotourism project, which thrives in harmony with the natural environment and economically benefits the local communities that are involved in the development of the project. Hoteliers have also been refurbishing and putting protocols in place to keep our population and our visitors safe when they return.”
#40 POSTCARD FROM PALAU from Paloma Zapata @sustainabletravel_ngo
"Though the Pacific Island nation of Palau may be tiny, it is a destination bursting with big, bold ambitions and setting a benchmark. Environmental stewardship and responsible tourism have always been the way of the Palauan people, who know that the future of their country depends on the health of their corals, fish, beaches, and jungles. When travellers arrive in Palau, they are required to sign the Palau Pledge, the world's first mandatory eco-pledge. In doing so, visitors promise not to exploit the islands’ natural resources or culture during their stay.
Palau has also established one of the world’s largest marine sanctuaries, banned tour operators from utilising single-use plastics, and adopted the world's strictest national sunscreen standard. With climate change a very real threat to their existence, Palau is now on a mission to become the world's first carbon neutral tourism destination as travel returns following the pandemic. Palau aims to achieve this lofty goal through a project that is being carried out by @sustainabletravel_ngo and @slowfood_international which will reduce the industry's dependence on imported food products, promote sustainable agricultural practices, and develop an innovative carbon platform for tourists to measure and offset the carbon footprint of their entire trip.”
#41 POSTCARD FROM ICELAND from McKenzie Ardisson, Deplar Farm @elevenexperience
“Iceland has been particularly vulnerable to the pandemic's impact on travel, due to being geographically isolated, and with a small population and an economy that relies heavily on tourism. However, it’s thanks to this low population density that the country has counted just over 5,000 Covid cases and is now readying itself for a major rebound when travel opens up again.
Now more than ever, people are seeking out experiential travel opportunities — prioritising destinations such as ours, since they offer lots of fresh air, nature and outdoor activities. It doesn’t get more remote than the Fljót Valley on the mountainous Troll Peninsula in Northern Iceland. Tucked beneath some of the highest peaks in the country, Deplar Farm is the ultimate basecamp for adventures ranging from heli-skiing to fly fishing and sea kayaking. And this 12-suite former farmhouse is a premier location for viewing the Northern Lights due to its lack of artificial light and proximity to the Arctic Circle. Eleven Life is the new wellness programme at Deplar Farm, and this highlights everything the beautiful country has to offer with customised spa therapies, local cuisine, and unique outdoor adventures and challenges. The entrancing Nordic island is the perfect place to escape and get away from it all.”
#42 POSTCARD FROM THE CONGO from Elza Gillman @ccc_odzala
"In the Republic of the Congo, national parks have been closed since the end of March and the Odzala Discovery Camps are only set to reopen, April 2021. It’s been strangely quiet without guests, and the habituated western lowland gorillas are venturing closer than usual to Ngaga Camp — much to our team’s delight! But with a high risk of COVID-19 being transmitted to gorillas and to primates in general, care is taken to limit human movement in the forest and to ensure adequate distancing to protect these wonderful animals from the reverse-zoonosis transmission of the virus.
Odzala-Kokoua National Park is a magnificent and pristine playground. The CCC Exploration Team recently ventured towards the centre of the park to discover more of its wonders. It was phenomenal to spend three days navigating on the river in a local pirogue or banana boat, hiking through the rainforest and scouting for new guest delights. The sightings were plentiful and rewarding, with my personal favourite: that Disney moment of being surrounded by hundreds of butterflies! The water level on the river was so high that we even got to swim in a forest.
During this period of closure, we are performing camp refurbishment and upgrades, taking care to valorise the unique feel of each lodge. It's also been an opportune time to provide training to ensure guests love every part of their experience, and that they connect with nature in a meaningful way as incredible memories are made. CCC celebrates 10 years in Congo in 2021 — and so we are greatly looking forward to a festive reopening.”
#43 POSTCARD FROM TURKEY from Selina Pirinccioglu @alavyahotel
"Here on the coast of the Aegean Sea, Cesme Peninsula, Alavya is grounded in the word ‘love’. At our hotel, created by Rana and Erol Tabanca who always believe in giving back to the community, our dedication to love features in everything we do. From distributing our smile-inducing Alavya teddy bears to local families affected by the recent earthquake, to our staff’s weekly commitment to environmental protection through our rubbish pick-up initiative.
This year, we've used our time to think more deeply about our social responsibility and how we can raise awareness on the environmental crisis the world faces. We began our movement for a cleaner and healthier community by building a weekly environmental clean-up programme from the streets of Alacati every Monday morning, and we’ve been happy to raise our voice and say #welavyaalacati for 115 weeks, collecting 12 tonnes of trash with the help of 1,500 volunteers.
As the health pandemic continues to impact the global community, we've made every effort to follow precautionary measures, implement cleaning procedures, and establish safety standards. This is to help combat the spread of the coronavirus, and so that our many recurring guests continue to feel a part of the Alavya family, and feel ever welcome at their Alavya home. Even through the most difficult times, we've become stronger through our connections to community and our commitment to our guests. Now that the most beautiful time of the season is coming, we have started designing our eco-friendly Christmas tree from the plastic bottles collected from the streets. We strongly believe, together we stand, together we are stronger."
@helpcutthecrap is Alavya’s sustainability partner; follow them for tips on how to Cut the carbon, Red meat, All single use Plastic.
#44 POSTCARD FROM FRANCE from Alinde Duteil @hiddenhotelparis
“Every year, the Christmas Lights have been lit on the Champs-Elysées end of November to ring in the festive season. But life in Paris is so different this year… No more hustle and bustle on the famous Champs-Elysées, no more lines in front of the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre Museum… and it is quieter than usual around the Arc de Triomphe, just a stroll from our little hotel.
After two lockdowns, the Hidden Hotel has reopened its doors and the entire Hidden family is here to welcome guests into this small haven of serenity and simple purity. We believe that in such trying times, it is even more important to feel safe and taken care of. Our delicate and all-natural Christmas decoration is up, mistletoe, candlelight and the subtle scent of organic essential oils to create emotions and instil relaxation. Christmas is the peaceful time of the year… Come and hide in the Hidden Hotel."
#45 POSTCARD FROM SCOTLAND from Pieter-Paul Groenhuijsen @AlladaleWildernessReserve
“Alladale, up in the Scottish Highlands, is quite literally at the end of the road, in one of the most remote areas in the United Kingdom. A world in lockdown sometimes makes everything outside feel like far, far away. The constant news updates with the latest Covid stats and the new national lockdowns throughout Europe seem to stop when you walk around our wilderness reserve with no mobile phone signal.
But of course, it isn't stopping. This begs the question: how are we collectively going to get out of this? Better, healthier, more aware, more balanced, better connected to nature and to each other? Scotland has amazing potential to lead the way in turning the travel industry into a more sustainable one. There are more and more people here who are actively looking to play a role in nature restoration and conservation. Professionally, in their everyday choices when shopping for food, or as a part of their holiday. The travel industry should take notice of how things are in Scotland and incorporate this ethos in rebuilding and getting back to what we love and do best, which is to be of service."
@VisitScotland is the first country to sign up to @tourism_declares, whose NHS was first to prescribe time in nature and where huge swathes of land are being rewilded...
#46 POSTCARD FROM SUDAN from Carla Piazza, ITC Sudan @italtoursudan
“The hustle and bustle in the office. Countless calls booking hotels. The noise of cars ready to leave. A coming and going of drivers from the warehouse loading travel gear. Minivans lined up waiting for clients. Final details discussed with the guides. Coffees guzzled before hitting the streets of Khartoum to explore the National Museum, the confluence of the Nile, the colourful Omdurman market, the Dervish Ceremony and the Nuba Wrestling.
This was how mornings started before this damned Covid-19 pandemic arrived. Now the roar of the cars outside the door has drastically diminished; the desert equipment stays put; our exclusive properties in Karima Meroe and Tombos are eerily silent; and guides pop into our office to ask, hopefully: ‘Hi Carla, when’s our next trip?’
Covid-19 has brought calm and quiet, but it hasn’t taken away our smiles or our desire to plan new trips to discover the north and the 1,000-year history of the Black Pharaohs! The atmosphere when walking through the sand dunes or enjoying a karkadè (hibiscus infusion) at the foot of the Jebel Barkal or admiring the sunset at the pyramids of Meroe has, fortunately, also not changed. The Sudanese are as smiling and welcoming as ever, ready to offer you a cup of tea or coffee in their homes or in the shade of an acacia tree. The majesty of the archaeological sites, the sound of sand blown by the wind, the colours of the frescoed tombs, the intoxicating scent of incense and the power of the Nile are the same as ever. We are certain that after this long pause which brought our lives to a standstill, Sudan will be the ideal place to regenerate and start again… We are waiting for you!”
#47 POSTCARD FROM RWANDA from Teddy Batamuriza @oogorillasnest
"In Rwanda, as all around the world, the pandemic's affected people from all walks of life, not just those in tourism — but the lack of guests travelling here has had widespread impact. Many organisations, such as the Volcanoes National Park, benefit from tourism-related funding that goes back into research and conservation, local infrastructure, including hospitals and schools. There are positives, similar to those experienced globally, with some appreciating the chance to enjoy a slower pace of life. The pandemic has given everyone a new perspective, as some have taken the opportunity to launch independent entrepreneurial initiatives.
We started to welcome guests back to One&Only Gorilla's Nest in September, and the team has a lot planned for next year. We are always exploring how to offer ways to experience Rwanda. The wide-open spaces and beautiful natural surroundings here will be the perfect antidote after a year where many have felt restricted in some way, and we look forward to meeting more guests from around the world in 2021.”
Please note: as was mentioned in our recent Congo post, gorillas are vulnerable to human disease, and so it's important to ensure Covid isn't transmitted to them by travellers and negative Covid tests are essential to travel here.
